After a very long day traveling back from Beppu to Seoul, I left Korea on the 27th. Happily.

On the 25th, I woke up early and got the 4:00am train to Fukuoka City. The train wasn't a bullet train, but instead reminded me of one the Amtrak train I sometimes take from Chicago to Macomb, IL. It was hard to sleep in however, and so I gave up trying to snooze. Instead I planned my last 36 hours in Seoul. (And, as I am writing this retroactively, was key to such an amazing time in Hong Dae, near Hong Gik University.)

Once in Fukuoka City, I had to get to Hakata Port. I had three hours to do so, but thought it would be best to get going right away. I found the bus to Fukuoka City (the bus stop hidden next to a Starbucks), plus two new friends, both teaching English in Busan. Adam was from St. Louis, MO and Jacob was from somewhere in Germany. They had missed the hydrofoil ferry the day before because of weather, and were hoping to get back to Busan that day. They certainly earned the "good luck" by giving me a few quick tips on getting through customs.

There were 250 people waiting at the port, from the prior day's canceled ferries. But, I did have a reservation, and got on the 9:30am. I was happy to leave the packed port, but sad for my new friends, who would be waiting most of the day at best. The ferry ride this time was very bumpy. I have been on several small diving boats in the past that really beat this, but there are only 200 people on this ferry, and it still seemed small. After 3 hours we finally arrived in Busan.

Ahh, Korea! It felt like home!

In Busan I jumped on a shuttle bus to the train station and sat down. For about 90 cents the shuttle would take you to the train station. I was planning on taking the local subway train to the Bus station. A nice guy from Toronto joined on this short journey. He taught in Hiroshima, and was in Seoul to see some friends (and I suspect, gambling. He mentioned it several times.) So, we got off at the train station and he suggested I look at the cost of a train. It did save 2 hours of travel time. It was only $5 more, so I "splurged" for it. I could think of plenty of nice things to do in that two hours once I had this backpack stored somewhere. :)

Next... Adventures in Seoul!

Last Day in Japan

Well, today is the last day in Japan.

I've spent the last two days in Beppu City, soaking in the onsen, getting a mud bath, and a little bit of shopping at the 100 yen shop. Yesterday, I spent the day with my dorm roommate in the onsen, for lunch, then coffee. Tomomi showed me where to go, how to do it and why. It's been a wonderfully relaxing few days that couldn't have come any sooner.

So tomorrow I'm taking off at 3:00am for the 2 hour Shinkansen out of Beppu City to Fukuoka, then waiting 3 hours and getting on the ferry to Busan. From Busan I will immediately take the bus to Seoul. Tomorrow night I will be in Seoul. I am meeting up with some of the Teaching Assistants from the DeliEnglish Camp for drinks and then I will spend the day in Hong-Dae, near Hong-gik University looking for a few more souvenirs. On Wednesday I will probably spend a half day in Seoul, but leave for the airport at about noon, for a 3:00pm flight to San Francisco.

Soon I will be back home! I'm so excited about getting home, back to the Rocky Mountains, back to my wonderful boyfriend, and back to my lovely condo. All the comforts of home...

Hangin' in Hiroshima

What I’ve always known as a tragic place is now a gorgeous, modern city with a message. All of the cities I’ve been to in Japan have been well-kept neighborhoods, with brilliantly friendly people, and enough sights to keep the schedule full.

Anyhow, Hiroshima was lively, for sure. They’re drinking scene was in full-swing, but I was drinking tea on the particular night I was there. Even in a bar, I could feel the vibrant urban culture. So much for small town tranquility. Which is not to say that we (Americans) are forgiven for what we did to an entire city, nearly 63 years ago. Instead, most people who learned I was American calmly suggested that the US should stop making and testing nuclear weapons. But this isn’t my agenda. As any diplomatic person does, I see both sides to that story.

The Peace Park and Museum are an afternoon of history; the true and sometimes rough history of the WW where we did drop a bomb in Hiroshima and the graphic suffering of the people. However, there was just enough of the graphic details of the effects of radiation to get the point. No propoganda. The message the Museum and Park provide are that 6 countries, US, Russia, France, China, UK, and most recently, North Korea, need to stop using and testing nukes. A burning torch symbolizes this wish, burning in the Peace Park until the last warhead is safely destroyed.

With that said, I also visited the Miyajima Island, with the Torii Gates. Fantastic trip. When you are done playing with the deer that roam this island and interact, take a look at the small town, and fall in love with it. You'll see little ladies carving wood on the doorstep, deer tearing apart paper and eating it, seafood stacked on seafood for sale in steaming piles, little orange Torii gates to bring home and break in your suitcase, plus lots of cooking supplies ready to bring home. Seasonings, bottles of Saki, Shochu and wine line the streets begging to be part of your next late night.

Walk through all of this without spending a yen, and you’ll come to the Torii Gates. A wonderful eyeful of splendid orange paint, given as a blessing (and protection). Walk even more and you’ll find a trailhead to Mt. Misen. 1/8th of the way up and you’ll come to a ropeway that, for 1000 yen, will carry you to the top of the mountain. It’s pricey, but after climbing that mountain, it was all I could do to reach for that 1000 and relax on the way down. The trail was quiet, birds chirping to make it more perfect, and it was green the entire way up!

Absolutely lovely.

The JR Pass works on the ferry out, so that’s one cost you won’t need to worry about.
After all this I managed to find my way to the train station a bit early to get on to the next destination, Beppu City.

Leaving Tokyo

I left Tokyo today. It was hard to leave, because Tokyo was, for me, the perfect city. It’s fun, it’s clean (spotless in places) and the subways managed excellently, and even still the people in Tokyo are generally very sweet. Don’t even try to say that about New York City. Anyhow, it's hard to leave.

I’m headed to Hiroshima, on the bullet train. I will only be in Hiroshima for one night, and most of the day tomorrow to see the Peace Park, the A-Bomb Dome, the A-Bomb Museum, and Miyajima Gates. I’m staying at J-Hoppers from a recommendation from Claire and Jackie. Once I get some photos I’ll be posting those, too.

After Hiroshima, I will again board the bullet train for Beppu City, for 2 wonderful days of the hot springs. On Monday morning (very early) I will again board a train for Fukuoka, to take the ferry to Busan, South Korea, and immediately jump on a train bound for Seoul. After a day’s rest in Seoul, I finally board a plane to San Francisco, and then to Denver. I’m ready to come back home!

Internet Cafes in Tokyo - the new hotel?

On one of the nights, I spent the night in an Internet café! Don't freak out though. What you and I think of as Internet cafes in the US are far different from what an Internet café is in Tokyo. They are indeed dark, but they are for everyone, and particularly, they are for women who miss the last train and aren't allowed in capsule hotels. We scouted out several of these cafes, not so much to find a place to sleep, but to explore the cultural contrast. Me, Jackie, Claire and Kim all visited the local internet cafes for one-hour, two-hours, and even three-hours of time in these cafes where we all spent time writing email, on Facebook, and booking rooms at the next night's hostel.

The café I spent a night in was in downtown Shibuya (Gran Cyper Café), and Jackie and I both checked in at about 1:30am. The very helpful ladies charged us in advance for 6 hours of time. We are then sent to small cubicles with about 5 x 5 feet of floor space. The floor is raised, with a padded surface and something like a stadium seat pad with backing, and a small pillow. Your door is only 3 feet high flush with the top of your cube, and a 2ft gap at the bottom. The sections are separated into ladies only and general, so we picked the ladies only. For 6 hours of time in the cube, the flat rate is 1200 yen, or about $11.50. Not bad for a night’s sleep and time to check email (and post to blog!) Included in the fee is free coffee, juice, ice cream, tea, and various other machine-made hot drinks.

Sleeping in this café wasn’t easy, but not because I didn’t feel safe. It was too short. I had already seen who slept in the cubes next to me, only because I’m tall enough to glance over the doors of the cubes. Women in business suits working, girls with shopping bags who’d missed the last train at midnight, and one or two Harajuku girls. Not prostitutes, drug addicts or the like. It doesn't matter what you think of internet cafes in China, and the US. These places are for everyone willing, and they are definitely a second choice after a capsule hotel. After all, it’s not exactly the most comfortable place to stay.

As a note, we did find a capsule hotel that accepts women. Didn't make it though. Called "Capsule Inn" this place has an entire floor dedicated to women, and even conference rooms for women traveling and doing business.

You’re required to leave your shoes outside the cubicle, and from what I could tell, all of the 20 cubicles were full. It’s not luxury, but I saw exactly how it works perfectly for many women (and men) in Tokyo. It’s also expected that you will be sleeping and showering (yes, there are showers) so it’s all perfectly natural to look like you’ve just woken up.

In the morning, Jackie and I met in the lobby area for coffee, and left very early to go see the Tskuiji Fish Market. The best time to be at the market is 5-7am, so we were right on time.

As if there aren’t enough crazy, different things to do in Tokyo, that’s just one more.

Sleeping in a cubby

On Tuesday I moved accommodations to another hostel called the Ace Inn. The Ace Inn was different than other hostels I’ve stayed in while here. It basically boasted the necessities: bed, shower, wireless, and location. It was just two stops off of Shinjuku Station, which is one of the main hubs for getting around. Two stops from Shinjuku Station sits the neighborhood Shibuya, where I ended up spending quite a bit of time.

The beds are like cubbies. Stacked two high, the interiors have a clean wood-look veneer to them, a small light, a shelf, and an electrical outlet. Throughout the 10 story high building is wireless internet, although at times shaky, mostly very good. Most capsule hotels in Tokyo do not allow women to check in, although I did find one that had a floor for women-only, and an attached spa. It, however, was a bit expensive for what it was. These had the feel of a capsule, but a bit less compartmentalized.

If only they had drink service in the cubbies...

Shibuya

Since meeting back up with Jackie, Claire and Kim I have spent a good amount of time singing karaoke and staying up way too late. But these girls are a ton of fun.

Before meeting up with them I was on the hunt for a good karaoke bar. There are plenty, but I wanted the *Lost in Translation* experience, so I headed to Shibuya for some of the night lights and excitement. I found both.

On Friday, I met up with the girls. We arranged through Facebook to meet at the Hachiko Exit, a famous exit named after a dog. The dog apparently was owned by a Japanese man, and the dog would come to the train station everyday at 530 to meet his owner. When the man died the dog continued to return to the station every day at 530 for 10 more years, until the dog died. The loyalty of this dog, named Hachiko is the story behind the name of the exit and the statue of the dog. It is a frequented meeting spot in Shibuya.

So, we met at the Hachiko statue. Jack and the girls were coming in from Kyoto that night, and we were meeting up with her friend Kevin. Jackie sent me a photo of him, but I didnt look at it before I left that day and ended up asking any male who looked British, if he was waiting for Jackie. On the 2nd try, it was him. So we chatted until Jackie`s blonde headed popped from the sea of black hair.

We headed to dinner at an amazing local cuisine restaurant where, for 2000 yen (about $20) you can drink all you want. This was a recipe for disaster, but we still ended up having a ball. We headed to an Irish bar and left the karaoke for the next night.

I posted photos of Shibuya on Flickr. Have a look!

Tuned into Tokyo

I love the city. I feel more at home with 10 kinds of ramen restaurants simmering soy sauce and the chefs shouting Japanese welcome messages while you walk by. I love the escalators, metal structures, elevators, and even the throngs of black wool coats warming the white collars. I love flashing green stick people that let me know when it's safe to cross, and dodging bicylists. I love convenience stores every 25 steps and 10 stories of mysterious flashing Kanji messages, with some English thrown in here and there in the neon madness. Tokyo is more like home than a small town shrine, that's for sure. Don't get me wrong, I loved the temples. But you can easily over-do it, while the same subway station seems different everytime I'm there. New people. New conversations, even new fashion tips walking the underground runways. Yep, I love the city.

I think I'm just a sucker for convenience and Tokyo IS convenient for checking out the fanny-pack clad tourist attractions along with the high end shopping and quirky small shops tucked into the alleys. The subways system is quicker and further-reaching than the trains in Seoul. One suggestion, though. Tokyo's subway lines need to merge into one company, because you constantly have to pay for new tickets when you change lines. Annoying, but I guess it does allow you to compare all three.

1st night: the first night I hung out in Asakusa, close to where I'm staying. I'm staying at K's House Hostel, and it's very clean. So, I went out with the idea to have "train sushi" and sure enough, I did. I talked to a couple from Japan for an hour. They were fun, and they ate everything. They loved the roe, and the fried shrimp heads...Ewww.

1st day: The next day I headed to Shinjuku, and took a visit to the Metropolitian Government Building to have a look from 45 stories above Tokyo. I couldn't get any good shots because I brought the wrong lens. But I went to the tourism office to get a complete booklet on seeing the sights. It has helped quite a bit (although I forgot it today, and got a bit lost!) Later I headed to the Tokyo Tower and DID get some amazing shots of the city.

2nd night: Found a bar called "Bar Plastic Barbie" to sing karaoke and listen to 80s music. Stayed there all night. :) In the morning, me and two new friends (two friendly Japanese fellows, who spoke English with a slight irish accent...) to the Tskuiji Fish Market. Had the famously fresh sushi, which was pretty yum. Except for sea urchin. Don't even bother. Yucky.

Next: Adventures in Shubuya!

Fuji-san

After Fuji I headed to Kawakuchi-ko City, the city where hard core climbers go to take the bus to the first station on the track to climb this mountain affectionately called "Fuji-san". I took the Shinkansen and shot right into the Mishima stop. Got off the train and jumped aboard a bus. Now, normally it takes 2 hours and one transfer to get to Kawakuchi-ko City from the Mishima stop. But in this case it took 3 hours, because it started to snow very hard and the bus needed chains and traffic was very bad, and so on...

But finally I arrived. I asked the woman a the bus station counter to call the hostel for a pickup, since the bus arrived so late. A guy came up behind me and said: "are you going to K's house?" and I was. He said he'd just called them. Later I found out that that was "K" himself. (K's House is a small group of hostels in Japan.)

The room was comfy as always.


The next morning I woke up and took a walk on to the bridge to see "Fuji San" and I did. It's really an amazing mountain with your bare eyes. A little doggie followed me around while I chased the views. I took a cable car up to the top of a much smaller mountain nearby to get some really close up shots and got the newest photos in Flickr. Click on the "Japan Photos" on the right to see them all. I also found traces of other hikers; this snowman was still fresh.

Kyoto

I stopped in Kyoto on my way to Tokyo today and stayed.

Wow. And, wow. I just looked through my photos and I know it's the content I have within the city boundaries to grant me such excellent photos. I visited the Kyoto Tower, the Heian Shrine today, along with the Fushimi Inari Shrine for a look at the sights to be had in the gorgeous boundaries of Kyoto.

I have photos waiting to be uploaded, but the signal here is awful.

I did get a grip on my itinerary, and I am sure I'll make a stop in Hakone, to soak up the water of the "onsen" or Japanese public bath. Of course, I'll let you know!

Bullet Trains

Leaving Nagasaki today, I finally got the chance to ride one of the Shinkansen or “bullet trains” that Japan is known for. After a 3-hour long ride, I’m still shaking a bit. Never have I ridden public transportation with the same intensity; these trains go fast!! They can go up to 287 mph when traveling long distances, like the leg between Osaka and Tokyo.

It takes some getting used to, experiencing the train disappear into one of the hundreds of tunnels (with just a mild amount of claustrophobia.) I’m giddy about this Japan journey, and even more excited that I’ll be able to ride the bullet train again through Tokyo, then back down to Fukuoka again. I will also go to Hakone (near Mt. Fuji) I can’t wait!

In the meantime, there’s plenty to see between Tokyo, Fuji, Hiroshima and Kyoto.

I've got to say that the JR pass, for anyone considering, it's worth it. It's worth the money alone because you pass by cars and can't see the people driving them. Weeeeee!

Nagasaki

We arrived in Nagasaki on the 4th, late in the afternoon. I had booked the ryokan just the night before, and we did have a little bit of difficulty finding anything at all. The only features we gave up in this last minute booking were internet and proximity. We were a bit far away from the sights, but it turned out okay because there was a tram that shuttled the four of us to the Glover Gardens. Absolutely gorgeous!

I was only in Nagasaki for a day, but I managed to make most of the sights you shouldn't miss. I missed the Peace Park and museum, but I may head down there and to Beppu in two weeks for a short visit before I head back to the states.

Fukuoka City, Japan

It's monday night, and I'm sitting in a traditional guesthouse in Fukuoka, Japan. There's a nice heater at my feet, warming my toes from being outside all day. I've got a sip of green tea next to me, and in an hour I'm about to go to Canal City for some fresh seafood. Yes, it's lowkey, but I love it!

Fukuoka City has been called "San Francisco" of Japan because it's a major port for seafood for the southern coast of Japan. The weather is still very chilly, but it's far warmer than it was in South Korea.

On Saturday, I brought along 3 teachers with me on my excursion to Japan, who were also planning on spending some time here. We boarded a bus and rode to Busan, where we stayed one night. The next morning we awoke to get to the Ferry port, and boarded a hydrofoil ferry to Fukuoka, Japan. It was raining when we arrived, so we started some laundry and played cards for a few hours at our new home - a traditonal guest house, or ryokan.

Our beds are futons, and we all share a huge room where the flooring is straw mats. There is a Buddhist blessing written on the wall, still the accomodations have conveniences like a refridgerator, hair dryer, laundry, and TV. Clair called the bed this morning the "bed of dreams" as we all slept like babies. Literally we fell asleep during a late Buddhist ceremony, in the room down the hall. There are shelves with ancient artifacts in the corridors of the ryokan, watched closely by high tech cameras. There is room for public bathing, as well as private rooms to take a bath in. At $30 a night, you can't beat it.

Exploring Seoul, finding Japan

Since we did the performances and the camp has finished, I've been able to explore more of Seoul, and South Korea. In particular, I've explored the tourist areas, the hiking, the shopping in Gangnam, the clubs near Hongik University, and a little of InsaDong, a district known for it's advertising and sales industries. I did a little shopping today, and found quite a few finds and spent less than 40,000 won, or about $40.

Tomorrow will be another adventure. Me, Jackie, Kim, and Claire will take a bus to Busan to find our way to a luxury hostel. Yes, LUXURY! This place offers free internet, laundry, dinner, breakfast, shuttles, and hand massages. Whoo hoo!

On Sunday morning we will board the ferry to Fukuoka, Japan. This will begin our days of traveling in Japan by railway. Today, I bought a 21 day JR Pass to get around Japan. It was about $540, but includes all subways, busses, and pretty much all public transportation in Japan. I will be with this girl-crew until Tuesday, the 5th. Then I'll head to Kyoto on my own, Hakone for sights of Mt. Fuji, and finally meeting up with some friends in Tokyo on the 7th. In that 2-3 days I'm planning on finishing my self-taught exploration of my new camera, reading a 600 page Japanese novel I just started, and basically just living the last month down. I've been in 4th and 5th gear since December 30th and it's about time I get some extra rest and some exercise!

Today as I was walking around with the crew, I jumped into a coffee shop and struck up conversation with one of the other coffee lovers in the Pascucci Coffee House. He said some of the same advice David's been giving me all along: Japan is much different from Korea. But I'm going to leave what he mentioned a secret, until I get there. No use in creating gossip clouds where they aren't due.

So, that's what I have planned for the next few days. Any suggestions on an itinerary? I'd love to hear 'em!

Camp is done!

The Delicious English camp is now finished, and it couldn't have come any sooner. We finished our last two days with two days of dancing and performances from the kids. My kids did an episode of American Idol, and they performed beyond my expectations. These kids are motivated!

After all the kids were done, all of us teachers performed "We are Family" for the parents of the students. As I mentioned before, Koreans love western culture, particularly American culture and they really responded to our performance! I got a ton of photos from Monday and Tuesday. Check out the photos on Flickr for some shots of me and some fo the other teachers dancing our fannies off.